AMONG THE choirs praising fresh farmstand butter, rendered lard from organic pigs and cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil, we’d like to add an unlikely note: Could we hear a few good words for Crisco?

Pie crusts are made with very few ingredients, which means the quality of the ones you choose can make a huge difference. Above all, your choice of fat can make or break your pie crust. Pastry chefs ...

That seems a fair statement, no? Ninety years later, Crisco remains, just as fluffy and slippery and industrial white-white as the first day the stuff rolled off the line. Had someone refrigerated one ...